Creating Ring Mountings for Deep-Cut Gemstones

Deep-cut gems like Barions may not fit in standard ring mountings. Jewelers can try to find special mounts or custom solder a mount from pre-made parts.

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HomeLearning CenterJewelry and LapidaryQuestions About Lapidary and Jewelry MakingCreating Ring Mountings for Deep-Cut Gemstones
By International Gem Society
Question: I'm getting a handle on the standard cuts from Faceting The Easy Way. I think I'm ready to move on to a Barion cut. I'd really like to try a Barion emerald cut. Before I do this, I need some advice. I've noticed something that might be a problem. What type of ring mountings do you use for these gems? For most of my faceted stones, I use mounts from Tripp's. These have worked just fine. However, the Barions look a bit too deep or "full cut" to fit these ring mountings.
Barion emerald cut
A Barion cut can bring out a gemstone's brilliance. However, finding a standard ring mounting that complements this deep cut can be a challenge. Barion emerald-cut aquamarine, 1.3 cts, Mozambique. © Dan Stairs Custom Gemstones. Used with permission.

Answer: Your observation is spot on. Most Barions are too deep for standard ring mountings.

The Simplest Solutions

You have options:

  1. Go ahead and buy the mount you like best. Have a backup gem ready in case your Barion doesn't fit. Since the mounts take calibrated stones, gems that fit are easy to come by.
  2. Tripp's also makes special ring mountings for deep-cut gems. The selections are limited. However, you can buy the deep settings as heads and solder them to an appropriate ring shank, pendant bail, etc.

Soldering Ring Mountings

If you don't know how to do this, don't worry. Soldering is an easy thing to learn. Soldering will also expand your jewelry making capabilities considerably. You'll be able to combine pre-made parts into a custom designed mounting. This will expand your possibilities by several thousand!

Best wishes,

Donald Clark, CSM IMG

Soldering is an excellent way to create ring mountings
Soldering is an excellent way to create ring mountings and other jewelry settings designed for unique pieces. Photo by Jeffrey Putney. Licensed under CC By 2.0.

International Gem Society

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