[DNP] How to Shop for Ruby Jewelry


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HomeDiamond Advice[DNP] How to Shop for Ruby Jewelry

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The warm, red color of rubies makes them the perfect gemstone to represent the summer month of July as the July birthstone. Natural ruby jewelry makes for the perfect gift for someone special to celebrate their birth month, but it can be difficult to know how to shop for ruby gemstones. We've created a ruby shopping guide to help you find the best places to buy ruby jewelry and make sure you find the perfect ruby gemstone. 

What is Ruby?

Ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum, so any red, gem-quality corundum is considered to be a ruby. This means they are very closely related to sapphires, which is the gemstone name of any other color of corundum. Rubies are especially durable when compared to other colored gems, which has made them especially prized in natural ruby jewelry, as they are not easily scratched and will survive the wear and tear of everyday life. 

Birthstone earrings make for a timeless gift for a loved one. © James Allen

Ruby gemstones are much rarer than diamonds, with the majority of rubies coming from East Asia while diamonds are found across the world. Some rubies are incredibly valuable, large gems selling for millions with exceptional color and clarity. Still, ruby gemstones used in jewelry are usually cheaper than diamonds of similar size. Although rubies are rarer, there is a much higher demand for diamonds, so rubies can be much cheaper than diamonds. This can make rubies a more affordable alternative to diamonds if you're looking to show off a beautiful and rare gemstone on a tighter budget.

Rubies and diamonds beautifully complement each other in this tennis bracelet.

Rubies and diamonds beautifully complement each other in this tennis bracelet. James Allen

Which Ruby is the Best Quality?

The best quality rubies are those from Myanmar, formerly Burma, and are famous for their bright red, "pigeon's blood" color. This color is considered to be the perfect ruby color and displays a vivid red saturation with a dark tone. Burmese rubies even exhibit fluorescence, giving the gems an alluring, glowing effect. Due to the fact that they only come from one location, Burmese rubies are quite scarce and will fetch a high price for their rarity and unparalleled beauty. 

How to Choose a Ruby Gemstone

Knowing how to choose a ruby can seem daunting at first, especially if you want to make sure you are getting a fair price. To help break it down, a ruby gemstone's value is determined by the 4Cs: color, cut, clarity, and carat. These four factors are evaluated by gemologists when determining the price, and you can use them too. 

Ruby Color

Rubies are famous for their radiant red color, so those with the richest color are the most prized. All colored gems are evaluated based on their hue, tone, and saturation, terms used to describe different aspects of a gem's color. Hue refers to the overall color of the gem and can include both primary and secondary visible colors. The tone is used to describe how light or dark a gemstone is. Lastly, saturation describes the intensity of the hue, and gems are ranked from grayish to vivid. The highest quality rubies have a red hue, deep tone, and vivid saturation. Some rubies will have secondary hues such as purple or orange, which will detract from their value as it gets further from pure red color. The price of a ruby gemstone is mostly determined by its color, as most are in search of bright red rubies. 

A striking ruby ring. Rubies are often graded from A to AAAA based on color and quality. © Angara
Find this Ring
at Angara

Ruby Clarity Guide

A ruby's clarity is determined by the number of inclusions it has, which are small imperfections picked up by the gem while it forms. Most rubies have inclusions, but only some are visible to the naked, untrained eye. These clear ruby gemstones are referred to as "eye clean," and include rubies graded VVS (very very small inclusions) to some VS (very small inclusions) graded rubies. Some VS and SI (small inclusions) graded rubies will have visible inclusions, and it's the number of visible inclusions that will determine their value. Although inclusions usually have a negative impact on the value and appearance of a gemstone, sometimes rubies can display a "star stone" effect, also referred to as asterism when the mineral rutile is included in the stone. When cut in a cabochon shape, these remarkable rubies will reflect light to create a shining star in the center of the gem. 

1.36 Carat Round Ruby
You can see small, dark inclusions in this gorgeous ruby. © James Allen.

Best Cut for a Ruby

Rubies are usually cut in their country of origin, which is referred to as "native cut." Ruby rough is tightly controlled and expensive, so custom cuts can be hard to come by and will come at a price. Native cut stones can be recut, but you will have to sacrifice some of the weight in order to achieve the custom-cut look you are going for. Rubies can be cut into any fancy gem cut, with the most common cuts being cushion and oval cuts. These cuts best resemble the natural crystal shape of ruby gemstones, so the least carat weight is lost when they are cut. Emerald cuts are the most highly valued cut, as their large window can showcase your ruby's rich, deep color. Out of all of the 4Cs, cut has the least impact on the value of a ruby, so choose the cut that best matches your style and makes you the proudest to show off your birthstone. 

Emerald cuts show off the rich color of rubies. © James Allen

Ruby Carat

It is very rare to find a gem-quality ruby over one carat, so the price per carat skyrockets as carat size increases. The most expensive ruby ever sold, the Sunrise Ruby, weighed in at a whopping 25.59 carats. It sold for over $1,000,000 per carat at a price of $30 million.

13.24 Carat Oval Ruby James Allen
This fantastic ruby from James Allen ruby weighs in at 13.24 carats.

Shopping for Ruby Jewelry Online

Shopping for rubies online can allow you to look at far more rubies than any jewelry store, all from the comfort of your own home. We recommend shopping for ruby gemstones from James Allen and Blue Nile, who each have hundreds of options of loose rubies or jewelry pieces to help you create the perfect piece of ruby jewelry. James Allen's 360-degree view will allow you to examine the 4Cs of your gem from every angle, so you'll know exactly what you're getting. 

With James Allen, you can create custom rings, necklaces, and earrings.
Find this Ring
at James Allen

Best Ruby Engagement Rings

Rubies are an excellent choice if you're looking for a unique engagement ring that will be sure to amaze. Ruby gemstones are especially suitable for engagement rings because of their hardness, which makes them very durable and a perfect choice for everyday wear. They are cheaper than diamonds, ruby gemstones can also make for a more affordable alternative to a diamond engagement ring. The lower price can allow you to still buy a beautiful gem without having to make as many sacrifices in the quality of your gemstone. Rubies can take center stage in your ring and work as a striking solo act, but can also be used to add some flair to a diamond ring. Alternatively, small diamonds can be used as accents for a piece centering a diamond to create an elegant and unique look. 

Diamonds are used to create a stunning contrast in this James Allen engagement ring.
Find this Ring
at James Allen

Lab-Made Rubies

Lab-made rubies have the exact same chemical composition and appearance as natural ruby gemstones, but they instead are grown in a lab rather than in the Earth. They appear identical to natural rubies, and with new advances in synthetic gemstone technology usually, only the best gemologists can tell the difference. These gems will come at a much better price than natural rubies, and will often have even higher quality color and clarity. This makes them an excellent option if you are looking for brighter, clearer rubies at a better price. Lab-made rubies are also the most ethical gemstone option, as rubies from Myanmar have been linked to ethnic conflicts in the region. 

Ruby Treatments and Enhancements

A ruby gemstone's value is so dependent on its color, because of this most rubies undergo heat treatment in order to enhance their color and clarity. It is such a common practice that it will not negatively affect the price of a ruby, although untreated rubies with the same vivid color and clarity as treated rubies will fetch a higher price. Although heat treatments are common, your jeweler should be transparent about any treatments or enhancements that have been used on your gem. 

Like most rubies, these Blue Nile rubies have been heated. This elegant 5-stone ruby ring makes a gorgeous gift.
Find this Ring
at Blue Nile

How to Care for Ruby

Rubies are very durable, ranking a 9 on the Mohs hardness scale just behind diamonds. This means they are very resistant to scratches, heat, and pressure compared to other gemstones. Still, they should be regularly cleaned, which can be done with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. You should also be cautious to put on any perfumes, hairsprays, or cologne before you put on your jewelry to protect your ruby from the spray and keep it clean.  

These fun, nature-inspired earrings from Angara can be dressed up or worn casually. As always, take caution with hair products and ruby earrings.

Ruby Birthstone Meaning and Symbolism

The rarity and lavishness of natural ruby gemstones have made them a symbol of wealth and power across the world. Throughout Europe and Asia, monarchs and royalty adorned themselves with rubies in elaborate crowns, as has always been considered a stone of kings. They are the most valuable gemstone in the Hindu religion, where it is believed if you gift a large gem to the god Krishna you will be reborn as an emperor. 

Rubies are also celebrated as the July birthstone, representing both the modern and traditional birthstone choices. Although the official list of birthstones was not created until the early 20th century, this tradition has existed for thousands of years all across the world. Rubies are commonly gifted to loved ones with July birthdays to celebrate their birthday and represent what makes them so special.

Birthstone earrings make for a timeless gift for a loved one. © James Allen

Amanda Butcher

Amanda is a junior at Tufts University studying geological sciences and environmental studies. She grew up hiking and mountain biking in the Bay Area and continues to explore nature and learn about the beautiful gems and minerals it forms in her free time.

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