Metal Options for Engagement and Wedding Rings

If you're shopping for an engagement ring, you've probably spent a considerable amount of time searching for the perfect stone, whether it be the traditional diamond or another gem. But have you given any thought to the ring metal?

The type of metal you choose for your ring affects everything from price to durability. It can even affect the color and sparkle of your stone, particularly if you choose a diamond.

Below is a roundup of the most common engagement ring metals and their properties. Then, we'll answer questions often asked about choosing the right metal.

Gold

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Yellow gold is the most common metal used for engagement rings. It's warm, yellowish hue complements diamonds, as well as a number of other stones.

But here's something I bet you didn't know. Most gold rings are not made of pure gold. Gold by itself is orange in color and very soft. Jewelers mix it with many different metals, including copper, nickel, and zinc, to create alloys with different colors and strengths.

Gold Alloys

While gold alloys can display any color in the rainbow, the most common in engagement rings are yellow, white, and rose gold. But recently, black and other colors have started to gain popularity, as well.

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Yellow gold is often mixed with copper. For rose gold, jewelers mix gold with copper and sometimes a little bit of silver.

White gold is mixed with white metals like nickel. It's often coated with rhodium to make it stronger and even whiter-looking.

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Measuring Gold

The amount of pure gold in a ring is measured in karats. If you've done any research on diamonds, you probably came across a similar term to describe the weight of the stone. That's carat with a C. Karat with a K indicates how many parts out of 24 are actual gold.

So, a 24-karat gold ring will be 24 out of 24 parts gold, or almost completely pure gold. An 18-karat gold ring, will be about 75 percent gold and 25 percent other metals.

It would stand to reason that the more gold in a ring, the better it is. And that's certainly true if your intended has metal allergies that could be set off by a ring that contains nickel or some other metal.

But remember that gold is a soft metal. The more gold in your ring, the more likely it is to scratch or dent. A 24K-gold ring is the most expensive, as well. Even though the ring will be more malleable, the more pure gold in the ring, the more expensive it will be.

That's why 18K- and 14K-gold are popular choices. They're harder than 24K but still contains enough gold to reduce the risk of an allergic reaction.

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The two images are of the same ring in 14K- and 18K- gold, respectively. Can you tell the difference?

Platinum

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Platinum is part of a group of metals, called the platinum metals, that include palladium and rhodium. It is grayish-white in color and looks very similar to white gold. But platinum is much rarer than gold, so it's more expensive. It's also denser than gold, so a platinum ring will feel heavier on the finger.

A platinum ring will also cost you more because it will contain almost 100 percent platinum, rather than a mix of metals like a gold ring.

Platinum is hypoallergenic and resistant to wear and tarnish.

Palladium

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Palladium, which is part of the platinum family, is very durable and resistant to discoloration. Like platinum, it has a white color. Unlike platinum it's lightweight.

Palladium is also a rare metal, and rings made of this metal are 95 percent pure. So, a palladium ring is more expensive than a gold or silver ring.

Silver

Silver is the whitest metal used in rings. But it's much softer than platinum or gold, making it susceptible to dents and scratches. Silver also tarnishes easily, so it needs to be cleaned frequently.

Silver is much less expensive than other metals, but it's not often used in jewelry that's worn every day, like engagement rings.

Tungsten Carbide

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This black or silver metal is often used in men's wedding bands. It's very durable with a permanent polish.

While the metal won't scratch or dull, it can shatter if it's hit with enough force. It can't be cut or soldered, so you can't resize a tungsten carbide ring.

On the Mohs hardness scale, which rates hardness from one to 10, tungsten is a nine. If you wear a tungsten carbide ring every day, it could scratch other metals you come in contact with.

Titanium

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Titanium is the strongest metal on earth, but also very light. It usually has a silvery color, but you can find black titanium rings, as well. While it's traditionally been used in men's wedding rings, more and more titanium engagement rings are popping up on the market, usually with a diamond in a tension setting.

Like tungsten carbide, titanium is a very hard metal (9 on the Mohs hardness scale) that is hard to work with. It can't be cut or resized, so it's a risky investment.

Titanium is also a hypoallergenic metal.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is an extremely durable metal. It's silver-gray color offers a unique look. And its strength is great for those who work with their hands. This is a very practical choice for people with physical jobs, active lifestyles, or skin sensitivities.

Rhodium Plating

Rhodium is in the platinum family. It's used to plate white gold and silver rings to make them stronger and reduce tarnishing, in the case of silver. Rhodium also makes a ring hypoallergenic. It will wear off over time, so you'll have to have your ring re-coated every few years.

There is also black rhodium, which gives jewelry a vintage look.

You've picked the perfect diamond for your fiancé, but don't stop there! Do your research on ring metal to create a one-of-a-kind piece that brings out the best in your stone.